Baden, Austria Travel Guide

The Weinstrasse brings you to the serenely elegant spa town of Baden. Since antiquity, Baden's sulfuric thermal baths have attracted the ailing and the fashionable from all over the world. When the Romans came across the springs, they dubbed the town Aquae; the Babenbergs revived it in the 10th century; and with the visit of the Russian czar Peter the Great in 1698, Baden's golden age began. Austria's Emperor Franz II spent 31 successive summers here. Later in the century Emperor Franz Josef was a regular visitor, his presence inspiring many of the regal trappings the city still displays. In Baden Mozart composed his "Ave Verum"; Beethoven spent 15 summers here and wrote large sections of his Ninth Symphony and Missa Solemnis when he lived at Frauengasse 10; Franz Grillparzer wrote his historical dramas here; and Josef Lanner, both Johann Strausses (father and son), Carl Michael Ziehrer, and Karl Millöcker composed and directed many of their waltzes, marches, and operettas here.

With some exceptions, food in this region, while influenced by Viennese cuisine, is on the simple side. The basics are available in abundance: roast meats, customary schnitzel variations, game (in season), fresh vegetables, and standard desserts such as Palatschinken (crepes filled with jam or nuts, topped with chocolate sauce). However, imaginative cooking is beginning to spread, and most places have fresh fish and other lighter fare. Look for at least one vegetarian course on the menu.

Around Neusiedler Lake the local Pannonian cooking, strongly influenced by neighboring Hungary, showcases such spicy dishes as gulyas (goulash) flavored with paprika. You'll also find fresh fish, goose, game, and an abundance of fresh local vegetables. Along the Danube, restaurants make the most of the river view. Simple Gasthäuser are everywhere, but better dining is more often found in country inns. Restaurants, whether sophisticated and stylish or plain and homey, are often rated by their wine offerings as much as by their chefs' creations.

Dining in the countryside is a casual affair. Meal times are usually from noon to 2 for lunch and from 6 to 10 for dinner. It's rare to find a restaurant that serves all afternoon, so plan ahead. It's a good idea to reserve a table, especially for Sunday lunch, which is a popular time for families to get together. Tipping 5%-7% is customary.

While there are some luxury hotels in Linz and a few castle-hotels along the Danube, in general accommodations in villages in the countryside are pretty basic. Although this is a lightly traveled region, many hotels have received complete makeovers, so they are far more stylish than they were a generation ago. Most establishments are family-run, and somebody on staff usually speaks English. You'll probably have to carry your own bags, and sometimes climb stairs in older buildings. Booking ahead is a good idea, as most places have relatively few rooms, particularly rooms with private baths. The standard country pillows and bed coverings are down-filled, so if you're allergic to feathers ask for blankets. Accommodations in private homes are cheaper still. These bargains are usually identified by signs reading "zimmer frei" (room available) or "frühstückspension" (bed-and-breakfast).

Some hotels offer half-board, with dinner in addition to buffet breakfast. The half-board room rate is usually an extra €15–€30 per person. Occasionally, quoted room rates for hotels already include half-board accommodations, though a discounted rate is usually offered if you prefer not to take the evening meal. Inquire when booking. Room rates include taxes and service, and usually breakfast—although you should always ask about the latter. In summer, nights are generally cool, but days can get uncomfortably hot. Most older hotels don't have air-conditioning, and rooms can get stuffy; whenever possible, see the room before checking in.

Bicycling around Neusiedler

The flat plains around Neusiedler Lake, with their tiny hamlets and unspoiled scenery, are perfect for leisurely bicycling. Practically every village has a bike-rental shop (Fahrradverleih or Radverleih), but on weekends demand is so great that it's a good idea to reserve in advance. A bike route encircles the lake, passing through Hungary (you can shorten the route by taking the ferry between Illmitz beach and Mörbisch). Bike route maps are available at tourist offices.


Visitor Information
For information on Lower Austria, call the Niederösterreich Tourismus in Vienna. Local tourist offices in the Vienna Woods, including those in Baden, are generally open weekdays. The Weinviertel region also has several tourist centers. The regional tourist information office for Burgenland province is the Burgenland Tourismus. There are helpful local Fremdenverkehrsämter (tourist offices), listed in the individual towns. In Linz you can pick up brochures from the tourism office in English as well as German. If you plan on seeing many museums, galleries, and castles in Lower Austria—including in Vienna, the Vienna Woods, Melk, Krems, and the Weinviertel—consider getting the Niederösterreich-Card (Lower Austria Card) for €49, which allows free entry to many places and discounts at others. It's available at tourist information offices, banks, and some tobacco shops.

Tourist Information
Burgenland Tourismus (Johann Permayer-Strasse 13, Eisenstadt, A-7000. 02682/63384–0. www.burgenland.info.)

Lower Austria (Herrengasse 13, Vienna, A-1010. 01/53610.)

Niederösterreich-Card (01/535–05–05. www.niederoesterreich-card.at.)

Niederösterreich Tourismus (01/53610–6200. www.lower-austria.info.)

Steirische Tourismus (St. Peter–Hauptstrasse 243, Graz, A-8042. 0316/4003–0. www.steiermark.com.)

Upper Austria (Freistaedter Strasse 119, Linz, A-4041. 0732/7277–130. www.oberoesterreich.at.)

Wachau (Schlossgasse 3, Spitz an der Donau, A-3620. 02713/300–60060. www.wachau.at.)

Waidhofen an der Ybbs (Freisingerberg 2, A-3340. 07442/511255. www.waidhofen.at.)

Weinviertel (Kolpingstrasse 7, Poysdorf, A-2170. 02552/3515. www.weinviertel.at.)

Wienerwald (Hauptplatz 11, Purkersdorf, A-3002. 02231/62176. www.wienerwald.info.)





original on fodors.com